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Gobbelcoque posted on r/xbiking1w

https://a.co/d/0gxW3D7F $50, 170mm and the right diameter (24 is super standard) comes with a BB but you can use those cranks with your BB. They're what I run on my bike. Very stiff and sturdy feeling, replaceable chain rings with the standard 104bcd.

Gobbelcoque posted on r/xbiking1w

It's worth fixing if you like the way it looks and it's the right size. everything can be changed. convert it to normal again. I hate fixies. But lugged steel frames are great/desirable, fuji is a good brand, and as long as it doesn't have any terminal cancer rust or major dents or misalignments, you're good. Park tool videos, bikespeeds and the flip bike series on berm creek is a great list of resources. The end result of this will be a bike that feels AMAZING, even against a brand new one. It's a little more expensive up front since some idiot made it a fixie, but really the only part I'd consider replacing down the line other than tires is the brake calipers and add kool stop pads. KS pads and good C brakes are insane. This seems daunting, but I promise it's easy. Here's a comprehensive list of tools and parts to get it riding, stopping, and enjoyable. Here's a list of everything, not including the lubes below or the tools. $324 total (70 of that is tires and tubes) but in reality most cheap bikes will need some of these things on the restoration anyways, so it's not the end of the world. It seems daunting, but most of these parts are one time purchases. Lube basically everything as you go, the moly grease or anti seize, and the t9 goes on chains. Get some anti-seize grease and molybdenum disulfide auto grease, and some boeshield t9 in the little drip bottle, that's all the lubricants you'll ever need (boeshield is an oil and rust proofer that is an amazing, low maintenance chain lube) It probably has just a freewheel adapter. Take it off, get a geared one. nice tall climbing gear makes hills nice again https://a.co/d/03D8SQvM $20 I'm trying to figure out what sakae model that crankset is so I can recommend a chain ring. You can measure it and get a single narrow/wide chainring in the 32 tooth range for $20, but for $50 you can upgrade it to an external bottom bracket hollowtech https://a.co/d/03D8SQvM $50 If the chain isn't worn it's probably long enough for a single speed 32 tooth with an 11-34, but if you need a chain, $10 (gold for bling, wrap the chain around the big back cog and the front outside of the deraileur until the nearest link lines up with the end around the front cog, then add 2 links. Park tool video explains) https://a.co/d/02SzPBCA $10 Derailleur https://a.co/d/01265lbo $20 Some brake calipers - you can get away with these just fine for now, https://a.co/d/0dhRTNPH $18 for the pair some surprisingly nice shimano tiagra brake levers with cables and housing https://a.co/d/05IVdsrk $35 Good shimano 7 speed shifter with cable (needs housing https://a.co/d/0jlCSorX $19 You're gonna need some cable guides https://a.co/d/09rOHtgi $6 Your choice in color for some cheap basic clutch cable and housing (not the best but not unsafe, just use the included cable with the shimano parts and use this housing) https://a.co/d/06zRT8Iu $10 Some cheap basic grips (get any grip you want, but locking grips are way nicer to work with) https://a.co/d/0eeyNfsl $7 Your tires look rancid. Get some tires and tubes (check if it's 650b or 700c or the weird as fuck 630ISO. Look at what's written on the tires). I'm gonna assume you have 700c's, but if not, you can find something. You can probably easily handle some 30-32mm's, so let's get some cheap ass but safe enough 32's for now. You've got schrader in the rear, presta front, so you should do tubes too - tires are a big upgrade point but for now, these will work since you need to get it back to "bicycle" Tires https://a.co/d/0bIqzmEX $40 tubes (4 for $30, nice and durable) https://a.co/d/002LyEve That will have your bike able to shift, stop properly, and be pretty capable all around. Not a hill climbing monster, but you could get this BB/crankset + a front derailleur + shifter if you wanted a 2 speed front for real climbing. (instead of the first BB and cranks, get this, and then add these other 2 parts) - this is worth the extra $40 if you have a lot of hills. https://a.co/d/0iokfIKg $47 Left hand 2 speed derailleur https://a.co/d/08U7nPs4 $18 front derailleur (route the cable for it from the top) https://a.co/d/0cfrqjKa $19 Optional: bars: If you find those bars annoying or uncomfortable, get a quill stem that can do modern stuff (grease a quill stem before you put it in and it gets way tighter way easier, the two parts that slide across each other Get some digital calipers and measure the interior diameter of the steerer tube after you remove the bars, and then get the correct one of these for $9 https://a.co/d/0eyReQ49 I'd recommend an adjustable stem at first until you know what you like https://a.co/d/0fgJn0pr $24 (very good quality I use these a lot. 90 or 110mm are a good starting point) Some basic slightly swept bars that will work, but get really any non-drop (needs different shifters and brake levers) handlebars, these $26 slightly swept ones are super comfy, but you can get ANYTHING you want with a 31.8mm (modern) diameter https://a.co/d/0faxxJYL $26 Tools: Duratech needle nose pliers replace a TON of tools for cheap. INSANELY good housing and cable cutters, and great crimpers in the handle for cable end caps. worth it. Way better than the $40 park tool pliers. These are WORTH it. https://a.co/d/00sCGN3Z $17 This cheap tool kit should get you everything you need to do all the work. Best tools? no. But everything should work https://a.co/d/01jIj9uo $60, with the pliers and the lockring wrench you should have everything you need to get started. The only other thing you'll need to remove that bottom bracket is a lock ring wrench - don't bother with the hammer + screwdriver, spend $13 and don't ruin your paint. https://a.co/d/03jPTxBn $13 And recommended but optional, a $46 workshop stand https://a.co/d/0dWzRsz6 If you do this, (none of it is hard if you watch the park tools videos) you will have done pretty much a nut and bolt restoration of an entire bike. see if the headset bearings can just be cleaned and greased, if not, new bearings are like %5. Clean and grease the bike hubs. Then you can customize it with grips, bars, racks, tires, pedals, go wild!

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Gobbelcoque posted on r/xbiking1w

I thought i wanted a cool sexy modern 1x setup on my bikes until I started riding my well set up 3x bontrager and 2x morati with a secret twist - a modern RANGE cassette for a 1x bike. Now I am firmly in camp 2x. I don't ever need the full 3 ring affair, but a 2x8 or 2x9 with a 24-38 and a modern range 11-40 or 11-42 8 or 9 speed rear is an absolute monster of speed and climbing, and you never worry about chain dropping. If you want to address chain slap, a $50 deore 10/11s clutched deraileur fits on an old bike and works with your current shifter for 7-9 speeds. I would honestly stick with 2x on anything except a proper mountain bike or MAYBE competition gravel bike. I would even keep a 2x for a long distance bike. If the derailleur fails or you have a chain ring fail, you have a spare! https://a.co/d/0hoGEb03 This will get you converted to a modern rigid external hollowtech bottom bracket with a 2 speed. Just make sure you use cheap digital calipers (mandatory tool, cheap is fine but get a cheap digital one for convenience) and to measure the outside size of the bottom bracket and use one or both of the spacers included with the BB, because your trek is probably a 68bsa, which needs both of the spacers or it won't fit. You need an external Bb wrench (don't worry about torque, just as reasonably tight as you can get with the hand wrench, get the $23 5 in 1 aluminum one that will do any external Bb.) don't accidentally torque the crank arm bolts to the bottom bracket setting like I did yesterday lol. Impressively the crank arm threads held and the bolts snapped at like 30NM. Had to extract it and put new bolts in. You will need an internal bottom bracket tool, get the combination kit that has a crank puller, BB aocket is like $13 https://a.co/d/0cxhhxpw the only tool you might need is a lock ring tool depending on your BB, but this is a billion times better than a flathead and a hammer and marking up your paint. Idk why it's $15 and no cheaper ones exist but this is worth your suffering https://a.co/d/06cv4p0P You need a cassette/freewheel tool and chain whip https://a.co/d/0d01obEd There's a 3 ring version too that's also great, if you want to keep the 3 rings, which is valid. Still gets you the more rigid external Bb and hollowtech cranks. If your bike has a freewheel, cheapest option is a new freewheel in the 34 tooth rear. Combined with the 22-36 2 speed chain ring and you'll get solid climbing ratios, but if you want modern and mega climbing (which I do) then you should just get a nice new $75 rim brake wheel with a Shimano freewheel hub on Amazon. You probably have a 130mm dropout spacing, I can't recall if the wheel I found yesterday for someone was a 130 or 135 hub but you can make a 135 fit. If your bike is a free hub, get a cassette. Bucklos or bolany, 11-40, 42 max. With a 22 or 24 little ring your torque ratios are genuinely hard to ride. If your bike is an 8 speed, just get an 8 speed cassette so you don't need to change your shifter. And a new chain for however many speeds you have. Just count the number of rear gears, so 7, 8, 9. Use the big-big plus 2 links method to size the chain. Park tool video explains it. You will probably need to adjust the third screw on the deraileur that opens the gap between the jockey and the cog so they don't kiss on upshifts. If you want to keep the deraileur and need more space, $20 wolf tooth deraileur extender. That will give you a better range than a TOP spec modern 1x, better chain retention, you get the climbing perk of being able to drop the front ring pedaling under load (under appreciated benefit) So if your bike has a cassette. That looks 8 speed I think. Get an 11-40 cassette. Adjust the deore lx deraileur to fit. Get a new chain if you need and size it. You really don't need more than that. If you want to get fancy with one step up, also get the combo external BB and 3x hollowtech crank setup on Amazon for $50, no need to change the front deraileur or shifter. If you want a sleeker 2x setup, get the external BB and hollowtech 2 speed I linked, and a Shimano 2 speed shifter - that front deraileur will work fine. If you desperately, desperately want a 1x setup (you might run into chain retention issues on an old hike, bear in mind) assuming that bike is a cassette, just get an 11-42 or 11-46 10 speed cassette. They fit on the same length freehub actually, the spacing is just more narrow. You will almost certainly need a new deraileur. Deore clutched 10/11s long cage one is about $50. An 11-46 might run into space issues with the adjustment in that bike, so beware you might need an extender if you go for that. Don't get an 11-50, you'll have chain line nightmares. I wouldn't go past 11-42 honestly. You'll also need a 10 speed shifter. Comes with cable, get new housing. For 1x up front, again the bolany or bucklos external BB and hollowtech crank combo kit is your best bang. I'd go with a 104bcd 4 arm crank over a direct mount but either is okay, and you probably want a 30 or 32 at the biggest tooth narrow-wide chain ring up front. Don't go oval, you will have perpetual chain drop issues. The reality of that setup is you will have worse gear ratios, it will cost more to set up, it will be noisier because 10 speed cassettes are narrower between gears so they just rub more, and you'll be more susceptible to dropping chains, so I'd probably recommend a chain keeper. Which is even less efficiency and more noise. The sweet spot of cost and performance and looks is the 2 speed 2x8 for you. I'm doing that on an unobtanium morati 1.1 right now. I could go 10s 1x, but it looks and rides better with a 2x9. The 2 speed crank and BB kit I showed you, a 2 speed shifter, new 8speed chain in whatever fancy color you like (a gold bucklos or bolany hollow chain is like $15) and an 11-40 bolany or bucklos 8 speed cassette. Install the BB and cranks, cassette, size the chain, install it and then adjust the derailleurs (get yourself some cnc colored cable and housing kits for flare.). Or get a new 8s chain, cables, and that 11-40 cassette and send it with your current square taper 3x front for $35 all-in.