TRIWONDER Stem Riser Adapter Aluminum Bike Fork Stem Quill Riser Extender Extension Road Mountain Bicycle Stem Head Up Raiser Handlebar Adapter

It's worth fixing if you like the way it looks and it's the right size. everything can be changed. convert it to normal again. I hate fixies. But lugged steel frames are great/desirable, fuji is a good brand, and as long as it doesn't have any terminal cancer rust or major dents or misalignments, you're good. Park tool videos, bikespeeds and the flip bike series on berm creek is a great list of resources. The end result of this will be a bike that feels AMAZING, even against a brand new one. It's a little more expensive up front since some idiot made it a fixie, but really the only part I'd consider replacing down the line other than tires is the brake calipers and add kool stop pads. KS pads and good C brakes are insane. This seems daunting, but I promise it's easy. Here's a comprehensive list of tools and parts to get it riding, stopping, and enjoyable. Here's a list of everything, not including the lubes below or the tools. $324 total (70 of that is tires and tubes) but in reality most cheap bikes will need some of these things on the restoration anyways, so it's not the end of the world. It seems daunting, but most of these parts are one time purchases. Lube basically everything as you go, the moly grease or anti seize, and the t9 goes on chains. Get some anti-seize grease and molybdenum disulfide auto grease, and some boeshield t9 in the little drip bottle, that's all the lubricants you'll ever need (boeshield is an oil and rust proofer that is an amazing, low maintenance chain lube) It probably has just a freewheel adapter. Take it off, get a geared one. nice tall climbing gear makes hills nice again https://a.co/d/03D8SQvM $20 I'm trying to figure out what sakae model that crankset is so I can recommend a chain ring. You can measure it and get a single narrow/wide chainring in the 32 tooth range for $20, but for $50 you can upgrade it to an external bottom bracket hollowtech https://a.co/d/03D8SQvM $50 If the chain isn't worn it's probably long enough for a single speed 32 tooth with an 11-34, but if you need a chain, $10 (gold for bling, wrap the chain around the big back cog and the front outside of the deraileur until the nearest link lines up with the end around the front cog, then add 2 links. Park tool video explains) https://a.co/d/02SzPBCA $10 Derailleur https://a.co/d/01265lbo $20 Some brake calipers - you can get away with these just fine for now, https://a.co/d/0dhRTNPH $18 for the pair some surprisingly nice shimano tiagra brake levers with cables and housing https://a.co/d/05IVdsrk $35 Good shimano 7 speed shifter with cable (needs housing https://a.co/d/0jlCSorX $19 You're gonna need some cable guides https://a.co/d/09rOHtgi $6 Your choice in color for some cheap basic clutch cable and housing (not the best but not unsafe, just use the included cable with the shimano parts and use this housing) https://a.co/d/06zRT8Iu $10 Some cheap basic grips (get any grip you want, but locking grips are way nicer to work with) https://a.co/d/0eeyNfsl $7 Your tires look rancid. Get some tires and tubes (check if it's 650b or 700c or the weird as fuck 630ISO. Look at what's written on the tires). I'm gonna assume you have 700c's, but if not, you can find something. You can probably easily handle some 30-32mm's, so let's get some cheap ass but safe enough 32's for now. You've got schrader in the rear, presta front, so you should do tubes too - tires are a big upgrade point but for now, these will work since you need to get it back to "bicycle" Tires https://a.co/d/0bIqzmEX $40 tubes (4 for $30, nice and durable) https://a.co/d/002LyEve That will have your bike able to shift, stop properly, and be pretty capable all around. Not a hill climbing monster, but you could get this BB/crankset + a front derailleur + shifter if you wanted a 2 speed front for real climbing. (instead of the first BB and cranks, get this, and then add these other 2 parts) - this is worth the extra $40 if you have a lot of hills. https://a.co/d/0iokfIKg $47 Left hand 2 speed derailleur https://a.co/d/08U7nPs4 $18 front derailleur (route the cable for it from the top) https://a.co/d/0cfrqjKa $19 Optional: bars: If you find those bars annoying or uncomfortable, get a quill stem that can do modern stuff (grease a quill stem before you put it in and it gets way tighter way easier, the two parts that slide across each other Get some digital calipers and measure the interior diameter of the steerer tube after you remove the bars, and then get the correct one of these for $9 https://a.co/d/0eyReQ49 I'd recommend an adjustable stem at first until you know what you like https://a.co/d/0fgJn0pr $24 (very good quality I use these a lot. 90 or 110mm are a good starting point) Some basic slightly swept bars that will work, but get really any non-drop (needs different shifters and brake levers) handlebars, these $26 slightly swept ones are super comfy, but you can get ANYTHING you want with a 31.8mm (modern) diameter https://a.co/d/0faxxJYL $26 Tools: Duratech needle nose pliers replace a TON of tools for cheap. INSANELY good housing and cable cutters, and great crimpers in the handle for cable end caps. worth it. Way better than the $40 park tool pliers. These are WORTH it. https://a.co/d/00sCGN3Z $17 This cheap tool kit should get you everything you need to do all the work. Best tools? no. But everything should work https://a.co/d/01jIj9uo $60, with the pliers and the lockring wrench you should have everything you need to get started. The only other thing you'll need to remove that bottom bracket is a lock ring wrench - don't bother with the hammer + screwdriver, spend $13 and don't ruin your paint. https://a.co/d/03jPTxBn $13 And recommended but optional, a $46 workshop stand https://a.co/d/0dWzRsz6 If you do this, (none of it is hard if you watch the park tools videos) you will have done pretty much a nut and bolt restoration of an entire bike. see if the headset bearings can just be cleaned and greased, if not, new bearings are like %5. Clean and grease the bike hubs. Then you can customize it with grips, bars, racks, tires, pedals, go wild!

(last part) What's left? Tires and tubes. From there, sky's your oyster. Don't ride old rubber. Kool stop pads are an investment (about $50 for your first set of pads+holders for both wheels), but they will make the brakes feel INCREDIBLE and very safe, and the ones with replaceable pads are cheap to keep replacing the inserts as they wear out. I'd do that ASAP but the blocks that come with those shimano V brakes will get by, though when you're ready, you'll notice a big improvement. Tires are you get what you pay for, but there are deals and you should pick based on the terrain you ride. Mostly city? don't get super knobby tires. Knobs are less rolling efficient, more work to ride on, and noisier. Tan sidewalls are classic but not mandatory. I'd stick with a 26x2.1 tire. If you plan on REALLY commuting on it (which these bikes actually make the most god tier commuters ever) in inclement weather, consider a slightly more hybrid tire. Maxxis DTH or schwalbe billy bonkers are classics, and maxxis 333's in 2.1 are also great. If you really want a commuting all-season god tire, the schwalbe hurricane is my personal king. If you want to save money, fincci tires are acceptable, the cupartino is a little loud but cheap and I quite like 'em. Maxxis 333 2.1's on aliexpress are going to be one of the cheapest/best options. Stellar tire, look sick with a textured sidewall pattern, versatile for road and gravel and light off-road without being loud. Continental race kings are a good choice too. For tubes, don't mess around with TPU, IMO. The weight and insane durability of butyl rubber is worth it when performance isn't your goal. Bell 26 inch schrader valve tires with sealant in them are one of the cheapest options and they're bomb proof. Now you've got a kickass riding bike. You can change your stem, pedals (fooker are great value) bars, seat, add a rack, lights, fenders, go nuts! If you do all of that before you start doing the visual mods (first thing I'd change after all that is a stem that switches it from quill to normal, it's like $9 https://a.co/d/0hndQDrE , just use some cheap calipers to measure the inside diameter of the steerer tube to make sure you get the right one. And when you insert a quill, grease the quill and the part where the two bits slide against one another with the moly grease. Almost nothing on the bike should be assembled without grease or anti-seize. Greasing the square taper on an old bottom bracket is MANDATORY to getting it to tighten cleanly, same for the quill) Then get an adjustable stem like CWXC for $25 in 90mm or so, and then your choice in bars. That will be the biggest first change to the ergonomics.

Long post split into a few (I put a couple hours into this for some reason - DM me if you have any questions) but this should be comprehensive and will get you started with a series of easy to do upgrades that will get it riding like a $2000 bike. Feel free to DM me with specific questions, I've done almost all the mods and cobbling together of parts imaginable and found basically the best value stuff. You have a bike that you can cheaply modify into something that will be comfortable, reliable, fast (the 3x front setup is WORTH keeping) and really fun to make YOURS. Park tool's youtube page and bikespeeds videos for all your service needs. A lot of the standard items have budget versions and brand name versions that are robust and reliable. First step is replace what you need to get it safe. You can address a TON of other stuff next to get it set up just for you and make it something you will adore. I'll cover that at the end. Step 1. basic tools and get it mechanically working. If you want to do this AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE at first, you'll be replacing the parts you just did soon as you upgrade, but just DM me if you want me to get you on the road for as cheap as possible first. These upgrades however will be abject improvements to every single aspect of your ride, and if you enjoy the mechanical engagement of the bike, you will like riding it with other mods more too. Looks almost always come second to basic safety and comfort. Tools we need - some specialty mandatory tools, and a few very quality of life ones. 1.) duratech pliers, $17. These CLOWN on the expensive park tool ones and replace the need to also have housing and cable cutters or cable end crimps. https://a.co/d/01mxVpon 2.) metric ball end L shape T handle hex wrench set. Harbor freight has a $20 pittsburgh one that I use that came with a stand, but this will do the job great for $20 https://a.co/d/02xr3RVs . Alternatively, for $10, this will do the job too just as well really. And color coded handles is nice. I might actually get this instead https://a.co/d/0fObxD6N 3.) external bottom bracket wrench if you want to do the better upgrade for the worn crank chain rings https://a.co/d/04JBo9te 4.) headset wrench (just one, you need one thin one to hold the bottom lock ring of your headset and an adjustable wrench can hold the top one) $13 https://a.co/d/04JBo9te 5.) pedros tire lever $8, best ever https://a.co/d/05qK48E4 6.) spoke wrench for various size nipples, $6 https://a.co/d/05qK48E4 7.) (optional) spoke tension gauge. Useful for really dialing in wheels, but very optional now, $13 https://a.co/d/0gY1uB6J 8.) bottom bracket and crank puller, $13 https://a.co/d/0i1CjiRH 9.) cassette lock ring, free wheel and chain hub tool, $17 https://a.co/d/05lFMllI 10.) bottom bracket lock ring wrench for removing the old bottom bracket, $16 https://a.co/d/08LW51LL 11.) chain wear checker, chain breaker tool, chain master link pliers, and a few master links, $15 https://a.co/d/05pkpfNH 12.) zip ties (whatever you like - tons of uses, you can true wheels on the bike surprisingly well with them) some $4 flush cut pliers are worth it https://a.co/d/02gi4VlG 13.) anti seize (mandatory) https://a.co/d/00yi2GGF 14.) mini grease gun (worth its weight in gold, trust me, it with moly grease is the single most used thing I have other than the allen wrenches) $13 https://a.co/d/0bXcH6H1 15.) moly grease (put in the mini grease gun, just shovel it in with a spoon. mandatory to have some kind of grease and this stuff is good for bearings, contact surfaces, everything. Lifetime supply for $14) https://a.co/d/03Ry495U 16.) boeshield t9 for chain lube and anything that needs a lighter oil or rust protection. This is a miracle fluid, $9 will go a long time https://a.co/d/05pkpfNH 17.) (optional, recommended) bike repair stand, $45 https://a.co/d/05pkpfNH 18.) a mini bike air pump is worth having. These are $25 and will save you https://a.co/d/02gi4VlG 19.) a multi tool. the crank bros one is kinda king for $27 https://a.co/d/02gi4VlG 20.) even with sealant tubes, a micro tube patch kit is worth having for $13 that fixes tons of tubes pretty permanently https://a.co/d/01Qcu6cs 21.) (optional, recommended) a small torque wrench. $35 https://a.co/d/0hndQDrE - you can't torque the big things like the bottom bracket cups or cassette lock ring with it, but those things can be man-tight and fine.