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I use a mask for this purpose! I think the 3M elastomeric masks are the most comfortable, and I think the 7500 series is the most comfortable of them. It is lightweight and the gasket against your face is soft and flexible. Make sure you get the filters rated for VOCs. The chunky filters like this will last longer and work better than the pancake style https://a.co/d/0bX4j45C
Apologies in advance if this is too much text, but this is not consumer-grade products that can be summed up in 2 sentences. At the shop, we would apply this with an air-assisted airless but we do volume. You can do it with a compressor and a HVLP gun or a Fuji HVLP just the same. Always, always, always, practice on a scrap piece first until you are happy with the results. A larger piece would be better so you can get the hang of how much to spray before you get runs. The garage is not really the best place to do this unless it's not connected through vents to any other part of the house. You do not want any of what you're spraying to get into the rest of the house. A shed in the backyard would be a much better option, if available. My recommendation would be to get an inflatable spray booth as you can place it anywhere you want. You will also need proper PPE. I would recommending renting a supplied air system for the job. If that's not available near you (or too expensive), at the very minimum you need to a Tyvek suit, goggles and a facemask with filters for organic vapors. Do not do this in shorts and a tshirt and do not cheap out on filters, get 3M brand and get the correct ones, $40 bucks is way cheaper than any kind of visit to the hospital. Get a 2nd pair of filters as well. If you ever get even the smallest whiff of almonds, swap to a new pair of filters as the first set is done and not protecting you anymore. Here's a link to the correct filters, I didn't search to find the best price so you may want to shop around first, but do NOT buy generic filters: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009POHLRC When working with 2k, you should always follow the TDS (and product application sheet, if it exists, though most include this info in the TDS) of the product you're using. Here's a link to the TDS and product application sheet for HKR114: https://prowoodfinishes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Milesi-Water-Borne-White-2K-Acrylic-Urethane-Technical-Data-Sheet.pdf and https://prowoodfinishes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Milesi-Water-Borne-White-2K-Acrylic-Urethane-Info-from-Pro-Wood.pdf Since it isn't mentioned, I can fill in a bit of the info here as I've worked with this product before. You can sand the primer if needed, though hopefully you've done proper prep and everything you're spraying is nice and flat. You cannot, and should not under any circumstances, sand the first coat of HKR114 unless you miss your recoat window, which is UP TO 3 hours. If you miss your recoat window, you will have to wait 24 hours and scuff the 1st coat with 600 grit before laying down the 2nd coat. For best results, you SHOULD spray the second coat within an hour of the first coat, though this time may vary a little bit depending on your ambient temperature and humidity. Do not spray mist coats, you are aiming to lay down 5 wet mils on the first coat and a similar amount for the 2nd coat. Get a wet mil gauge if you don't have one and make use of it. For HVLP, Milesi recommends a 2.1-2.5 tip. Start cleaning your equipment the moment you're done spraying the 2nd coat. The pot life for HKR114 is 2 hours starting the moment you mix the catalyst into the base. After this 2 hours is up, any product left in your gun (and lines) will harden and not even acetone will remove it aka you will have to literally throw the equipment away. Clean up is done with water and soap. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll try to answer them if I can. Milesi makes fantastic products, but they are aimed at professionals with supplied air setups, so please do not skip on the PPE. This is not your grandpa's poly in a can from home depot.