Boron Nitride Paste (5 cc) by Slice Engineering | Improve Conductive Heat Transfer | Maintain Stable Temperatures | 3D Printing | Thermowells | RTD Sensors | Thermistors | Thermocouples | Heaters

https://a.co/d/00Svp3Lu. Thermistor https://a.co/d/0cyqgxmz heat block I used this but I think you could get away without it https://a.co/d/0adwMVCg I believe you only really need the thermistor for this temp

Ah okay. This is two problems: 1) your nozzle is clogged and 2) the heat break isn't properly installed. Basically that nozzle assembly is poor quality. I use these from aliexpress: 2.0 Version Upgraded Hotend For Kobra s1/s1 Combo Hotend Upgraded Thermistor Heater 200K For Anycubic Kobra S1/S1C Nozzles - AliExpress 7 They heat up way quicker, are more stable, and are easier to install/remove. (I find myself switching nozzle sizes a lot) You'll need to get some thermal paste and re-seat the heater plate but it's simple. I used this: Boron Nitride Paste (5 cc) by Slice Engineering | Improve Conductive Heat Transfer | Maintain Stable Temperatures | 3D Printing | Thermowells | RTD Sensors | Thermistors | Thermocouples | Heaters: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

It is heat creep for sure. I had the same issue with PETG at first. First try leaving the door open and the glass off the top. If you get no clogs doing that then it is more than likely heat creep. My chamber stays around 30C doing that. Once you determine that is the culprit then you can do 2 things that have seemed to help with mine (no heat creep since, with everything closed and chamber above 40C). Print and install this using PETG or something heat resistant: Creality K2 Plus Heatbreak Duct by John Doe | Download free STL model | Printables.com Order some Boron Nitride from Amazon or somewhere https://a.co/d/0dp7ZPvD and pull the nozzle, clean the current thermal paste off and apply the boron nitride. It works great. Now my PETG prints awesome.