Resin Jewelry Molds - Silicone Molds for Epoxy Resin, Reusable Casting Tray with Hole, Resin Mold for DIY Jewelry, Pendant, Earring, Necklace, Bookmark, Keychain Making Kit, Assorted Shapes

For small amounts: Cabochon mold: https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Jewelry-Artcraft-Crafting-Earrings/dp/B09Q2SQSNY Cabochon mold with bezels: https://www.amazon.com/Pendant-Teardrop-Silicone-Jewelry-Crafting/dp/B07K9JM6TM Pendant mold with holes: https://www.amazon.com/Resin-Jewelry-Molds-Silicone-Reusable/dp/B0F9DXGQXM

When working with resin, do your own research. Don't take the word of this community (myself included) or blogs. People make it sound as dangerous as working with chlorine. It isn't. There are several kinds of resin. Some are harmful, others are not. Some produce tons of fumes. Some do not. You really need to understand these differences before using the wrong resin in the home. To start. Epoxy:I would go with Art Resin. It is non toxic. No fumes. Inert once cured (jewelry safe). Food contact safe. It is listed as a category 2 skin & eye irritant. Which means it might irritate your skin and eyes on contact. You'll need PPE. From any manufacturer's website (don't just go to Amazon), you'll find the SDS & TDS. In this case, it is an irritant. Prolonged use may cause allergic reactions. Nitrile gloves and a N95 (overkill) mask is good enough. A fan and open window is good enough. Eye protection is always recommended since accidents can happen (splashing, dropping, scratching). It is one of the safest epoxies to start with. Anti yellowing. Not overly expensive. You will need equipment. This Starter Kit is the best option, in my opinion. Reusable measuring cups. Reusable sticks. Pipettes. You won't have to continuously purchase equipment, reducing waste and expenses. Paper towels, alcohol (70 & 91%), acetone, and a waste bin with liners. You will need workspace protection. I recommend painters plastic if you are clumsy. Line the ground and surfaces, painters tape to hold it down, to protect your carpet/floor and counter space. Silicone mat & leveling tray is a great investment! Making sure your space is level and the silicone is easy to clean. There is optional equipment to help you get a good product. Torch lighters. BBQ lighters. Mist bottles. Vacuum chambers. Pressure pots. Squeegees. Decorative items, like foils and glitter. These can be gotten later as you progress. Molds. There are jewelry molds. There are keepsake molds. You can make your own molds. UV resin:UV resin produces fumes as you cure it. You will get an irritated throat and eyes if you don't have proper ventilation or PPE. N95 is a minimum must. Eye protection is a minimum must. It is a category 1 irritant & sensitization, so wear gloves. With UV resin, you won't need as much supplies to get started. If you spill a little, it won't cure until you shine UV light onto it. Plenty of time to clean with acetone (which dissolves the chemical makeup). No need to mix and stir unless you add colors or glitter. It is still recommended to get the above surface protection if you are clumsy. Craft resin makes a beginner friendly option for UV. Scroll down for their UV SDS & TDS You will also need a cure lamp. Unlike epoxy, UV resin is best with small items. Thin layers at a time. ClearUV resin molds work best. As UV might not always penetrate thicker silicone molds. Wrapping up:Always read and follow manufacturer's instructions. Always read the SDS & TDS. If you need an organic vapor filter, do not use it in your home. Keep kids and pets away. Never pour down a drain. Some states have hazardous waste programs. Mix by ratio is different then mix by weight. Many videos get this wrong. The TDS usually breaks down the weight if you prefer using a scale. Heavy colorant in UV means thinner layers at a time. The added color will limit the UV penetration. Deep pours are great to use if you don't want to invest in a pressure pot. Lower viscosity allows bubbles to escape better. Thinner layers also reduce bubbles in craft and coating resin. Didn't pour more volume than the product suggests. Coating is for thin layers. Casting for small objects. Deep pour, as the name suggests, for deeper layers.