Pawfly 6-in-1 Bike Bottom Bracket Tool for 12/16-Notch 39/41/44/46/49mm External Cups, Bicycle Bottom Bracket Removal Tool with Bike Crank Removal Tool & Bike Crank Cap, Bike Bottom Bracket Wrench

Addressing the drivetrain might be better to make this your first upgrade. It's not going to be CHEAP cheap, but it should be affordable, and in the end you will get a BIG, BIG upgrade with a step up to the "modern" era of vintage mountain bikes. You have a few things that really limit customization and performance right now that we can address all at once. Those cantilever brakes and your wheel is a freewheel. Both can be bolt-on upgraded and are worth doing now. I do 100% recommend you do them, they'll unlock some seriously fun customization and make maintenance easier later on. If you really love the cantilever look, DM me and I can make replacing that part cheaper with pads and a different shifter, but it'll still need cables, which will eat into that cost. There are used parts that will work, but I wouldn't bother unless you have access to a good used bike parts shop. Firstly, you need to either re-lace that wheel for a modern hub, or for about $75, I'd just get a new wheel with one already in it. It'd have a fresh braking surface that will last forever, and this one has a proper shimano hub in it. This will convert your bike from the freewheel to an 8 speed cassette, which unlocks tons of fun. That means you can also upgrade your very antiquated cantilever brakes to v brakes with fresh cables and way more braking power. This wheel will fit directly. They're usually dead true, so all you do is put some grease on the cassette splines and slide a new cassette on. Just need a cassette lockring tool (and they do have torque specs but "good and tight" is fine. If you want a torque wrench, you need a big one and a small fine one. I'd get a small fine one in inch-pounds first, but neither are REALLY necessary unless you're adding carbon parts or have a habit of way overtightening things) https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-Weinmann-Rear-Release/dp/B0040DNJ88/ref=sr_1_8?sr=8-8 That wheel https://a.co/d/0gjnutk2 That cassette. You now have a behemoth climbing gear that will make any hill on earth insanely easy. You will maybe need a derailleur if your 7 speed can't reach, but you could try getting away with it first. If it doesn't reach all the way, this is what I put on EVERYTHING because it's smooth, easy to adjust, it will easily do a 7 speed (I have it on my classic road bike too lol) and with a clutch, means it won't chain slap! https://a.co/d/03XAaotL (I'd wait to do this one until you try your current derailleur unless you really want an upgrade, it's a nice upgrade but may not be necessary for this. And if you need cheaper, there are plenty of other choices without a clutch, which again isn't mandatory, just noticeably nice to have) It's $50, so I'd wait to see unless you want another fun upgrade that will make a noticeable difference on bumps. You could get something cheaper, as long as it's proper shimano or microshift branded and advertised for 8-11 speed, itll work. no SRAM Your front derailleur is fine. But if you do this, you'll need an 8 speed shifter. And while that's about $20, you can spend $40 on brand new shifters/brake levers AND upgrade your brakes HUGELY. https://a.co/d/0axiVEia These combo shifter/brake levers will be a big upgrade. I think they come with full cables and housing. If not, you shouldn't reuse the old cable. New shimano cable and housing kits are $20 for both brakes and $20 for both deraileurs, make sure you use the short one for the front and long for the rear, lol. CNC also makes some nice ones that come in colors!. Don't go cheap, those two brands are reliable and smooth. And they then let you convert those cantilever brakes to V brakes (which while both are cable, they have different pulls so need different levers). Big upgrade in feel and performance and safety. That change requires the new brake levers, so doing this all together now will save you about $80 in new levers later. V brakes are a big, big upgrade V brakes are you get what you pay for in ease of adjustment. These will bolt straight into where your brakes are now, and give you a MASSIVE boost to feel and power. About $50 for the pair. You could do kool stop pads now too, they WILL be a big upgrade, but for now, the included ones will work. KS pads are just another level and worth the $50 initial investment later on. https://a.co/d/05J5adkL https://a.co/d/07YFaf1L So now we've got you a new wheel that is a modern standard, new brakes, a modern rear cassette that will be way more fun and easily changed later, and new shifter/levers to control them all very comfortably. It should come with all the cable and housing you need. A chain, you need to make sure it's an 8 speed chain. The widthof the chain switches for 9 speed and up https://a.co/d/02RF73Pb Bucklos is solid and cheap. Gold for bling, silver for simple. Lastly, we need cranks. This is either a cheap thing or an upgrade opportunity. You have a 5 bolt crank which makes finding new chain rings annoying. Switching to a 4 bolt crank with NON RIVETED chain rings means replacement rings will be cheap and easy to get later. https://a.co/d/03eYe2hc That will bolt right on. You WILL need a crank puller tool, you will NEVER get them off without one. That said, since you got that $13 pawfly crank puller and BB tool, let's do your bottom bracket since it's a wear item. A new shimano square taper bottom bracket is another $25 Or, for $45, you can upgrade to a WAY stiffer external bottom bracket and hollowtech crank set all in one! https://a.co/d/0cCvZVun So use that pawfly tool to remove the cranks and the bottom bracket (the right side with the pulleys is reverse threaded, so you turn it right to loosen. That and pedals are the only reverse thread items on the bike to worry about. You will need this tool to install the new external BB since I'm not sure what size cups it uses, this will do ANY of them. It's $25 instead of $12. https://a.co/d/04JBo9te Either one will work for you and the bike. I would do the hollow upgrade since overall it's cheaper, stiffer, and if the BB fails a nice replacement shimano hollow BB is cheap. Just make sure you use one of the included 2 spacers on either side. There is a torque setting technically, but anti-seize on the threads and "as tight as I can reasonably get it without trying to break it with the handle on that tool" is A-OK. So. We've put a modern rear wheel on. Now you've got a modern easy to upgrade and replace cassette with a modern climbing gear that will transform the bike on climbs, and another gear! We're gonna probably try to keep the original rear deraileur, the front is 100% fine, and we've got a new chain, and a new external BB and hollowtech cranks that will make the whole bike feel stiffer and better. We've got bigtime upgraded brakes too. Check your headset bearings. park tool video for that. If you need to replace them, get a cheap $10 kit and replace just the bearings + cages, using some of that moly grease.

Long post split into a few (I put a couple hours into this for some reason - DM me if you have any questions) but this should be comprehensive and will get you started with a series of easy to do upgrades that will get it riding like a $2000 bike. Feel free to DM me with specific questions, I've done almost all the mods and cobbling together of parts imaginable and found basically the best value stuff. You have a bike that you can cheaply modify into something that will be comfortable, reliable, fast (the 3x front setup is WORTH keeping) and really fun to make YOURS. Park tool's youtube page and bikespeeds videos for all your service needs. A lot of the standard items have budget versions and brand name versions that are robust and reliable. First step is replace what you need to get it safe. You can address a TON of other stuff next to get it set up just for you and make it something you will adore. I'll cover that at the end. Step 1. basic tools and get it mechanically working. If you want to do this AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE at first, you'll be replacing the parts you just did soon as you upgrade, but just DM me if you want me to get you on the road for as cheap as possible first. These upgrades however will be abject improvements to every single aspect of your ride, and if you enjoy the mechanical engagement of the bike, you will like riding it with other mods more too. Looks almost always come second to basic safety and comfort. Tools we need - some specialty mandatory tools, and a few very quality of life ones. 1.) duratech pliers, $17. These CLOWN on the expensive park tool ones and replace the need to also have housing and cable cutters or cable end crimps. https://a.co/d/01mxVpon 2.) metric ball end L shape T handle hex wrench set. Harbor freight has a $20 pittsburgh one that I use that came with a stand, but this will do the job great for $20 https://a.co/d/02xr3RVs . Alternatively, for $10, this will do the job too just as well really. And color coded handles is nice. I might actually get this instead https://a.co/d/0fObxD6N 3.) external bottom bracket wrench if you want to do the better upgrade for the worn crank chain rings https://a.co/d/04JBo9te 4.) headset wrench (just one, you need one thin one to hold the bottom lock ring of your headset and an adjustable wrench can hold the top one) $13 https://a.co/d/04JBo9te 5.) pedros tire lever $8, best ever https://a.co/d/05qK48E4 6.) spoke wrench for various size nipples, $6 https://a.co/d/05qK48E4 7.) (optional) spoke tension gauge. Useful for really dialing in wheels, but very optional now, $13 https://a.co/d/0gY1uB6J 8.) bottom bracket and crank puller, $13 https://a.co/d/0i1CjiRH 9.) cassette lock ring, free wheel and chain hub tool, $17 https://a.co/d/05lFMllI 10.) bottom bracket lock ring wrench for removing the old bottom bracket, $16 https://a.co/d/08LW51LL 11.) chain wear checker, chain breaker tool, chain master link pliers, and a few master links, $15 https://a.co/d/05pkpfNH 12.) zip ties (whatever you like - tons of uses, you can true wheels on the bike surprisingly well with them) some $4 flush cut pliers are worth it https://a.co/d/02gi4VlG 13.) anti seize (mandatory) https://a.co/d/00yi2GGF 14.) mini grease gun (worth its weight in gold, trust me, it with moly grease is the single most used thing I have other than the allen wrenches) $13 https://a.co/d/0bXcH6H1 15.) moly grease (put in the mini grease gun, just shovel it in with a spoon. mandatory to have some kind of grease and this stuff is good for bearings, contact surfaces, everything. Lifetime supply for $14) https://a.co/d/03Ry495U 16.) boeshield t9 for chain lube and anything that needs a lighter oil or rust protection. This is a miracle fluid, $9 will go a long time https://a.co/d/05pkpfNH 17.) (optional, recommended) bike repair stand, $45 https://a.co/d/05pkpfNH 18.) a mini bike air pump is worth having. These are $25 and will save you https://a.co/d/02gi4VlG 19.) a multi tool. the crank bros one is kinda king for $27 https://a.co/d/02gi4VlG 20.) even with sealant tubes, a micro tube patch kit is worth having for $13 that fixes tons of tubes pretty permanently https://a.co/d/01Qcu6cs 21.) (optional, recommended) a small torque wrench. $35 https://a.co/d/0hndQDrE - you can't torque the big things like the bottom bracket cups or cassette lock ring with it, but those things can be man-tight and fine.