comments:
The usual triangle applies here: fast, cheap, good quality - pick any two. Cheap negative "scanners" that you see for $50 or so are fast but produce poor quality output and can generally only handle 35mm film (the strips with the holes) For larger negatives a backlit flatbed scanner may work, as mentioned below, with reasonable quality but the speed is likely to be slow (although you can scan multiple negatives at once and crop them). Given the age of the negatives and the fact they were most likely taken with amateur equipment "reasonable" may be good enough. When I inherited a similar set of photos in a range of sizes I rephotographed them using https://www.pixl-latr.com/ - I had to purchase a couple of accessories for different film sizes, as well as a cheap LED backlight pad from Amazon (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/HSK-A4-Brightness-Animation-Sketching/dp/B0BC8MSPJ9). While I used a DSLR with a macro lens you can use any camera (including your phone) provided it has close range focus and you can rig up a way of holding it steady at the correct distance (use the self-timer on 2 seconds to prevent issues with shaking it). Ideally the camera should be able to produce files in RAW format as these will give much better results when you edit them. I use Darktable (specifically the Negadoctor) module to invert the colours on the negative; it has a learning curve but it's free. Most importantly, this set-up allowed me to capture and edit the images pretty fast - about a minute to capture and 1-2 minutes to edit once I got into the swing of things. While I've not tried it, you may find that a LED backlight pad of the kind I mentioned and a regular scanner (if the backlight is thin enough to go into it) gives you results at least good enough to judge whether it's worth investing more time in doing a better job given what the pictures show. If the scanner can output TIFF format rather than JPEG then, as with RAW above, you'll getter results when editing and inverting the images.
I discovered from Reddit a trick to make printing at home tolerable. I use an LED tracing board / lightbox (they are cheap online less than $10) to see the overlap between sheets. I don't cut the edges anymore - just overlap and tape. It is super fast and accurate!
I used to have my patterns printed by https://patternprintingco.com/ (they ship very fast!). But lately I discovered from Reddit a trick to make printing at home tolerable. I use a LED tracing board that I had for embroidery (they are cheap online less than $10) to see the overlap between sheets. I don't cut them anymore - just overlap and tape. It is super fast and accurate! So fast that I don't bother to have my patterns printed for me anymore. Also that sounds like a bad pattern if they don't mention how to print the pattern in the instructions. All of my PDF patterns have several pages of instructions for printing and grading between sizes.