comments:
I've actually had great success doing a similar method but using AC analog volt meters hooked up across the speaker terminals. They don't use any real power since they're ultra high impedance. And bass frequencies are pretty much in the normal accurate response of these. Their movement is also pretty representative of average thermal power due to the natural slow reaction time of the needle assembly. For power handling precision these little gauges are a lifesaver, no external power needed unless you want a backlight. https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Voltmeter-DH-670-Rectangular-Voltage/dp/B01HPESBM2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=239HREOO4WSO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.OV4vhUWu1B7PEFRkxKVhmRvCsT_gG9BxY6qCO4Qs-_EEsZNI8TJxhFprQtmyDFpwChJN2eocYuzdH0xVtTCvchr4indii1OTOItzPaTmKqbDMSq72fufUbs374fofNPnThjxukRWxie7L735mpToPIeivfPUPJIzwmiNsqC8QBc83xIPX045sbMkMlrllTyQQSTDq8fcmsZoDzEWhBbQwd23oAkHq5MBefJLuN_09cc.V2EbJYPl5aSsBVCAES_GGNDBv_D4x1fy0YVrmx6uWcc&dib_tag=se&keywords=ac+analog+voltmeter&qid=1781549859&sprefix=ac+analog+voltmete%2Caps%2C204&sr=8-3 The concept is similar to analog VU meters but slightly less calibrated. But in this case it would be more accurate than typical LED programming unless you incorporate some type of power averaging algorithm.