Coavas Frosted Glass Window Privacy Film Day and Night, Static Cling No Glue, Anti-Glare Heat Blocking, Renter-Friendly Removable Decorative Covering for Home Bathroom Bedroom, 17.5 x 78.7 Inch, Pure

Coavas Frosted Glass Window Privacy Film Day and Night, Static Cling No Glue, Anti-Glare Heat Blocking, Renter-Friendly Removable Decorative Covering for Home Bathroom Bedroom, 17.5 x 78.7 Inch, Pure

comments:

alanbdee posted on r/homemaintenance2w

Was this the film you just put on the window like it's tint? The stuff I have blurs stuff way better then this. So I'd first try a different kind. From my order history: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XHXU7PU?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0&th=1

404-Any-Problem posted on r/reactivedogs3w

So, a lot of great things you have been doing. And I remember trying a lot of those before finding local support from a trainer and a vet who specialize in reactive dogs. That would be one thing I would look into, as medication may help in your case. Medication does not replace training but increases the bandwidth within which you work. Even with medication, you are looking at possibly up to 9 months or longer before everything melds together and you see bigger successes. A certified behavior trainer (it's unregulated, so make sure they're certified, ideally IAABC) can help you have that discussion with your vet. My trainer also helped me connect with vets who specialize in behavioral problems, which was a big help for us. Next, limit the view out the windows. This stops the rehearsal of the behavior you don't want. My trainer suggested window clings to frost the glass, rather than living in a cave with blinds constantly closed. These window clings have been great (and were cheap)! They let light in without seeing out. We only did the bottom half of the window (where the pup can see out), so we can still see out above as needed. It's just put on with water, so it isn't sticky and doesn't leave a residue. We have had them on for almost a year now (we have had a lot of other things to work on before we add visuals back). I have peeled back a corner to make sure there haven't been any issues, and there's no residue. Doing meal times on a schedule will be key. To help build value and safety inside the kennel, you can feed them in there as well. It is what we have done with our pup, and now she sometimes just sleeps in her kennel throughout the day. But yes, leave it open as it is their safe space that they can use any time they need. This is where things may feel weird. But you can't treat anxiety (as in a reward that will cause more anxiety), treats espeically high value ones add dopamine to the brain. This counteracts the other brain chemicals that cause anxiety. So when your dog is barking, mark and treat. If you aren't sure what marking is, it's a word you charge (we use 'yes') and then treat. It can also be a click, noise, or whatever you like. But once 'charged' with your dog, your dog should turn and look at you, expecting a treat. I know, I know. You think I am crazy right now. But I swear it will work! If your dog won't take treats, increase the value of the treats. If the high-value treats are still not eaten, your dog is over the threshold, and some rethinking might be needed (a trainer would for sure help in this case). We have done this with the sounds of delivery trucks, and while it wasn't overnight, she barks less and stops quicker, and there are days she hasn't barked at all anymore. Partly because I now have treats next to my desk as I work, so I can throw them down the hall/towards her as she barks. I still mark and treat even if I am not right next to her. It also keeps her from barking for a few seconds as she chases/looks for the treat. If sounds are the issue, like a doorbell or talking, there are YouTube videos that may be similar to what you have at your house. Kikopup on YouTube is a great resource. This is a playlist for their stop barking series (and it's all free!) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpzvqN9JNUA&list=PLE345355EA335F575 Hope this helps. But for sure, don't ignore, and don't increase any fear or pain during any of this training. I even comfort my dog (like you would a 2-year-old child who is fearful) if she asks for it. I don't feed into it, but give her some affection and attention to build up her confidence to try again. By addressing the underlying emotions/feelings/problems that will stop this without you being present as well. It will take time, but it is so worth it. I feel so much prouder of her when she wins because I am just a guide, not the reason she didn't react. She is doing the thinking and work. I'm just paying her for the work she is doing 😄 We also have a better relationship than any dog I've ever known.

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