Furniture Bolts 10 pcs M6 Galvanized Carbon Steel Furniture Bolts With Barrel Nuts Dowel Nut Connector Fastener for Chairs, Furniture, Beds (60mm)

Furniture Bolts 10 pcs M6 Galvanized Carbon Steel Furniture Bolts With Barrel Nuts Dowel Nut Connector Fastener for Chairs, Furniture, Beds (60mm)

comments:

ShiggitySwiggity posted on r/bdsmdiy2w

You need to work a lot on your woodworking and design skills before trying to sell this design, IMO. Those shitty L brackets should never be used... For anything. Especially anything that's going to move much, and a box full of human gettin' railed is definitely gonna move a lot. And you should never be able to see them. This would be an excellent application for plywood over those glued up panels, especially on the ends where you have thin sections between the leg holes and the ass hole. Thin sections like that are going to crack and fall out. It's also a lot stiffer than those panels. 3/4" ply will easily hold your occupant. The base looks plenty sturdy; you could easily make it much lighter by replacing some of the bits on the underside with 2x4 rather than 4x4 lumber. A cross lap joint is easy to make and adds significant strength. I would use lags rather than screws in the base, too. Use a forstner bit to make large, flat bottomed holes, add a washer and a lag bolt and it'll be far stronger. (It'll look better, in my opinion, too, but YMMV) If you must use 4x4 lumber, take a roundover bit and smooth the edges - the inevitable stubbed toe will thank you for it, and it'll look nicer. When you're using a roundover bit, generally I'd suggest you run it a bit higher than you currently are - that slightly inset part as you've done it now won't be super comfortable, and will collect dirt, pet hair, and such. It's also more prone to splintering. Something clearly went wrong when cutting the ass hole below the leg holes - one side has about an inch left between, and the other closer to 3". It makes me nutty to look at - if I paid money for this, I'd send it right back. Ditto with the leg holes on the lid - they're totally asymmetrical and it makes me nuts to see them. I would suggest researching router templates, or circle guides for a jigsaw, large hole saws for corners or round holes, or just spend more time and care when you're laying them out. From a design perspective - this looks like you're kind of halfway between "I want to be able to disassemble this" and "I don't want to be able to disassemble this". Furniture that can be readily disassembled and successfully reassembled usually has fasteners that help, and often a few bits of steel here and there to provide rigidity. Barrel nuts may be your friend here. Or, if you're not going for disassembly, rethink how you're joining the corners of the box so you don't have to use those metal brackets. If you're not going to unscrew it again, fill the screw hole with a glued in dowel and then use a flush cut saw to trim the excess. A bit of sanding and you're done. Looks way better, especially if you take the time to align the grain. Spend a little extra on prettier hardware that actually fits inside the other hardware, if you must have exposed screws. I would add a rail between the two ends opposite the hinge lid. This will strengthen the structure significantly, and will give the user something to hang on to while getting in and out. Your upholstery skills need a major upgrade. That boat/restaurant vinyl sews quite easily on a sewing machine, which will dramatically improve the appearance of your pads. Go watch a few youtube videos on upholstery basics - it'll help a lot.