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Here is a copypasta I put together for 8SE users (so just be aware that the eyepiece recommendations will be slightly different for you). TL;DR - get a Telrad, battery pack, dew heater/controller, and a few eyepieces ranging in mag from low (around 50x) to about 200x or more depending on your atmospheric conditions. But the biggest tip is to learn/practice efficiently and accurately setting up and aligning the scope by following the notes laid out in the cloudy nights link. Since the SE is a popular scope and people are always looking for advice/tips/recommended accessories, I have made this copypasta based on my own experiences with the scope. Remember these are just my opinions, and there is no “right way” to use the scope. Here are the recommendations: Proper alignment can be tricky, this forum has been the best source of information that I have found. “Hamdul” breaks it down in easy steps (scope balance, target final GoTo approach directions, anti backlash settings, other recommended settings, use auto two star, and the “up and to the left” and “defocusing” alignment techniques). For me, auto two star works great. Polaris is always my first star, and then I chose the second one based on time of day/year (the second star is one that is over 90° away from Polaris along the azimuth, and at a different altitude). For power, I would recommend getting one of these (I preofer the version that also has a USB port). It should give you many hours of usage per charge (I have never had the battery die on me), and is small enough to be mounted on the mount arm/motor to avoid cable tangle. Also running the scope off AAs is not a realistic path forward. Find some way to mount the battery to the arm, this will prevent cord wrap. I used to use heavy duty velcro (I now use a 3D printed controller/batter mount, see next bullet). Get a better mount for the hand controller. Here is a 3D printed version that also holds my recommended battery. The first one I made from foamboard and hot glue). If you want the 3D printed mount and don’t have a printer, just download the file and have a company like Craftcloud print it for you, that’s what I did. Get a Telrad or Rigel. IMO an RACI finderscope is not necessary for this scope and the red dot finder sucks. Get a heated dew shield and controller (this is the one I use and this is probably a good option as well). SCTs love to collect dew! If you are good with electronics and soldering, you can make your own DIY dew heater/controller. - Look into setting the (altitude slew limit - on page 22 of the user manual)). With my setup, I have mine to 65°. But that depends on your scope balance. When observing by myself, I like to set the tripod as low as possible to limit vibrations and shaking from wind. I used to sit on a cheap folding camp chair from Walmart, but upgraded to an adjustable height observing chair For eyepieces (talking about 1.25” EPs without a focal reducer), my favorites are: 32mm plossl for low power 28mm/25mm for general DSO observing ~15mm for mid power and planets on nights with poor seeing 12mm for planets on nights with decent seeing 8mm on nights with great seeing I have only had good views with an 8mm twice. Usually the atmosphere is too turbulent. these recommended focal lengths change if you decide to get a focal reducer, which I highly recommend (see below) If not too late, don’t buy an eyepiece kit, I have one and only use the 32mm plossl, the moon filter, and the case itself. Instead just buy EPs à la cart. I recently upgraded some focal lengths to the Paradigm/Starguider EPs, and I highly recommend them! Nice to look through and easy(ish) on the wallet. For an even more budget friendly option, check out the 68° “redlines” As of 2026, I use a 28mm RKE, 25mm Starguider/Paradigm, 18mm Meade 5000, 12mm and 8mm Starguiders/Paradigms, along with a 0.63x focal reducer (see below). I mainly observe DSOs. If I wanted to just observe the moon/planets, I will often remove the FR and just stick with the 12mm and 8mm. Focal Reducer: I love using the 0.63x focal reducer for achieving a wide true FOV and getting larger exit pupils with 1.25” eyepieces. I have leave it on for most viewing, only occasionally taking it off for planets. This is an alternative to using a 2” diagonal/visual back along with low power wide field 2” EPs. To achieve a wider true FOV with low power EPs, most people would recommend just buying a 2” diagonal and a nice 2” low power EP. But if you already have a bunch of 1.25” eyepieces or don’t have a lot of money to buy the more expensive wide field 2” EPs, then the focal reducer is super useful and can be cost effective. The FR with a 32mm plossl gives a 1.30° true FOV (large enough to fit the whole double cluster, but still a bit too small for the entirety of Andromeda - which is huge). Without a FR the maximum true FOV is about 0.82°. Also, it is easier to get wider exit pupils with a FR than with using long 2” EPs. A 32mm plossl and FR gives an exit pupil of ~5mm. To achieve this without a FR would require a 50mm EP. And at that point, you are running into issues with exceeding the maximum useful illuminated field due to too large of a field stop. Larger exit pupils are useful when viewing nebula with a UHC/OIII filter.
Here is a copypasta I put together for 8SE users. Let me know if you have any questions, and be aware that some links may be too old to work TL;DR - get a Telrad, battery pack, dew heater/controller, and a few eyepieces ranging in mag from low (around 50x) to about 200x or more depending on your atmospheric conditions. But the biggest tip is to learn/practice efficiently and accurately setting up and aligning the scope by following the notes laid out in the cloudy nights link. Since the SE is a popular scope and people are always looking for advice/tips/recommended accessories, I have made this copypasta based on my own experiences with the scope. Remember these are just my opinions, and there is no “right way” to use the scope. Here are the recommendations: Proper alignment can be tricky, this forum has been the best source of information that I have found. “Hamdul” breaks it down in easy steps (scope balance, target final GoTo approach directions, anti backlash settings, other recommended settings, use auto two star, and the “up and to the left” and “defocusing” alignment techniques). For me, auto two star works great. Polaris is always my first star, and then I chose the second one based on time of day/year (the second star is one that is over 90° away from Polaris along the azimuth, and at a different altitude). For power, I would recommend getting one of these (I preofer the version that also has a USB port). It should give you many hours of usage per charge (I have never had the battery die on me), and is small enough to be mounted on the mount arm/motor to avoid cable tangle. Also running the scope off AAs is not a realistic path forward. Find some way to mount the battery to the arm, this will prevent cord wrap. I used to use heavy duty velcro (I now use a 3D printed controller/batter mount, see next bullet). Get a better mount for the hand controller. Here is a 3D printed version that also holds my recommended battery. The first one I made from foamboard and hot glue). If you want the 3D printed mount and don’t have a printer, just download the file and have a company like Craftcloud print it for you, that’s what I did. Get a Telrad or Rigel. IMO an RACI finderscope is not necessary for this scope and the red dot finder sucks. Get a heated dew shield and controller (this is the one I use and this is probably a good option as well). SCTs love to collect dew! If you are good with electronics and soldering, you can make your own DIY dew heater/controller. - Look into setting the (altitude slew limit - on page 22 of the user manual)). With my setup, I have mine to 65°. But that depends on your scope balance. When observing by myself, I like to set the tripod as low as possible to limit vibrations and shaking from wind. I used to sit on a cheap folding camp chair from Walmart, but upgraded to an adjustable height observing chair For eyepieces (talking about 1.25” EPs without a focal reducer), my favorites are: 32mm plossl for low power 28mm/25mm for general DSO observing ~15mm for mid power and planets on nights with poor seeing 12mm for planets on nights with decent seeing 8mm on nights with great seeing I have only had good views with an 8mm twice. Usually the atmosphere is too turbulent. these recommended focal lengths change if you decide to get a focal reducer, which I highly recommend (see below) If not too late, don’t buy an eyepiece kit, I have one and only use the 32mm plossl, the moon filter, and the case itself. Instead just buy EPs à la cart. I recently upgraded some focal lengths to the Paradigm/Starguider EPs, and I highly recommend them! Nice to look through and easy(ish) on the wallet. For an even more budget friendly option, check out the 68° “redlines” As of 2026, I use a 28mm RKE, 25mm Starguider/Paradigm, 18mm Meade 5000, 12mm and 8mm Starguiders/Paradigms, along with a 0.63x focal reducer (see below). I mainly observe DSOs. If I wanted to just observe the moon/planets, I will often remove the FR and just stick with the 12mm and 8mm. Focal Reducer: I love using the 0.63x focal reducer for achieving a wide true FOV and getting larger exit pupils with 1.25” eyepieces. I have leave it on for most viewing, only occasionally taking it off for planets. This is an alternative to using a 2” diagonal/visual back along with low power wide field 2” EPs. To achieve a wider true FOV with low power EPs, most people would recommend just buying a 2” diagonal and a nice 2” low power EP. But if you already have a bunch of 1.25” eyepieces or don’t have a lot of money to buy the more expensive wide field 2” EPs, then the focal reducer is super useful and can be cost effective. The FR with a 32mm plossl gives a 1.30° true FOV (large enough to fit the whole double cluster, but still a bit too small for the entirety of Andromeda - which is huge). Without a FR the maximum true FOV is about 0.82°. Also, it is easier to get wider exit pupils with a FR than with using long 2” EPs. A 32mm plossl and FR gives an exit pupil of ~5mm. To achieve this without a FR would require a 50mm EP. And at that point, you are running into issues with exceeding the maximum useful illuminated field due to too large of a field stop. Larger exit pupils are useful when viewing nebula with a UHC/OIII filter.