Digital Manifold Gauges HVAC, 92 Refrigerant Dual Pressure & Vacuum Test HVAC Gauges with Hoses R22 R134a R410a Refrigerant Gauge Set with 1/4" SAE Interface, Portable Hook

Absolutely do it yourself. A couple of suggestions to make it really easy. Flexible polyethylene rods for bending the pipe. They go inside the tubing before you bend it. Also protects the tubing as you pass it through the wall. These are a game changer. https://a.co/d/0gBEqAHS Vacuum pump from Amazon. Inexpensive gauge set, i use it just for the pressure gauge for the nitrogen. https://a.co/d/07qKrwJh Nitrogen tank and gauge from Amazon , you'll have to exchange it for a filled one locally. SmartLock fittings from Supply House. These are also a game changer. A micron gauge from Amazon and the tool you used to connect to the port and remove the valve. https://a.co/d/01Gp0feU These things made it pretty simple and straightforward and dare I say it, almost foolproof. Many people will say doing the flares is really easy, but with a SmartLock you don't do flares at all, you just cut the tubing. Don't get me wrong, flares are pretty easy. You might skip the nitrogen , but I use it to blow out the tubing before I do any connections after I cut and ream the tubing. Also this way you make the tubing the exact size and there's no coils left over behind the condenser. I don't cut off the flare fittings on the indoor evaporator but use the appropriate Smart Lock flare fitting. So all in all you need two SmartLock flare fittings of each tubing size on your unit. I have had no leaks with the smartlock fittings. Do your setup, connect the smartlock fittings and pressurize with nitrogen. Leaks will be more obvious with high pressure as opposed to vacuum. Let the nitrogen pressure off after a couple hours and vacuum down the system, and check for a really strong vacuum for an hour or two. The professionals will poo poo the smartlock fittings , but for amateurs absolutely the way to go. And I used to do a ton of flare fittings, for air and hydraulics, back in the '70s and '80s just by feel, never had a torque wrench back then. Just get an electrical disconnect near the condenser outside , which is also pretty simple and straightforward. I've heard stories of inspectors also requiring a power disconnect inside near the evaporator but I think that's rare. But a three phase motor switch , about 20 bucks on Amazon would work if you need one there. Since you are using the smart lock fittings you do not need to buy the other tools , so all in all just a couple hundred dollars in tools, and once you do your first one, I will guarantee you will will be doing others.