Dayton Audio BST-1 High Power Pro Tactile Bass Shaker 50 Watts RMS, 4 Ohms Impedance - Turn Any Surface into a Speaker System - Generates Subwoofer Lows

This is a repost of my previous advice. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ In my opinion and (extensive) testing, you can’t feel four corners with any kind of real accuracy, at least not with just bass shakers. Visuals from the game and FFB from the wheel combine with the desire to feel the individual tires, and that's powerful for immersion. But I'm convinced it's just in our heads. I've done this on two different rigs, with multiple people, testing blind too, including myself. I challenge anyone that thinks they can feel the difference to prove it to themselves with blind testing. Have a friend come over and then while you are sitting in your rig, have them activate the shakers randomly while your eyes are covered and your ears can’t hear the vibrations. I don’t care if you never post about it again or even acknowledge my advice. I literally only want people to have the best possible simracing experience. Lots of shakers can be very fun for sure, but it gets really jumbled very quickly, and at that point is it really helping you drive faster? The left/right channels, when they are only separated by, at most, like 2 feet are simply too close to discern. Especially when both shakers are attached to the same very solid rig... everything just gets transmitted as one big vibration. Front to rear? Absolutely. Especially if you have the shaker attached directly to the seat or seat supports. I will say as a caveat, if you are literally sitting on or have the left and right rear shakers physically TOUCHING your leg/hip, you can feel them individually. But if they are attached to the seat or seat supports, even that tiny bit of difference means it basically doesn’t matter. I had 4 shakers, because well... I already own them and I was testing them on my new rig (Sim Lab P1X Pro). What I did, after LOTS of testing is the following, and this you can really feel because the primary vibrations are hitting the actual foot on that respective side. Add pedal haptics. I really think ONE shaker mounted underneath your pedal mount + haptic motors (Simagic HPR - not the neo.) on brake and gas, and ONE shaker mounted under the seat. When individual tires are off the track, the shaker at that end and the haptic on the appropriate side, activate together. Since your feet are touching those pedals it's very clear which side it's coming from and which end it's coming from. Current setup:2x50W RMS Amp - at about 90% on the amp1 BST-1 under the pedal plate - at 100% in Simhub3 HPRs (though, depending on what games you play, you kinda just need one or two)1 BST-1 directly to the underside of my seat - at (i know) 40% and it's still almost too powerful. I heard about some German guy doing a bunch of testing with how he was attaching the shakers to his rig, and he settled on (get this) 3M Dual-Lock tape. I was skeptical. I got some. I'm floored how well it works, and no drilling of my multi-hundred dollar seat. It's so good that my next experiment is going to be using the 3M Dual-Lock to move the front shaker to the TOP of my P1000i-RS pedals, as they are inverted I have this big solid metal place to attach them.I used to use TT25-8s on my pedals. Skip that and just go straight to the Simagic HPRs (not the Neo). The difference is so good that it makes them feel almost like active pedals. It's not a buzz, it's practically someone hitting the pedal with a mallet. 2x Dayton Audio BST-1 bass shakers - $110 (https://a.co/d/bnKxp3O)1 2x50W RMS Amp - $45 (https://a.co/d/hW3clsW)1 Sabrent USB Sound card - $8 (https://a.co/d/9efLMFs)Speaker wire - $5Simhub software - $10 All this for $180 and you'll have two bass shakers, one under your butt and one under your feet. 50W is PLENTY, especially on an aluminum extrusion rig.Then with the remaining money, buy some Simagic pedal HPRs (1 or 2) and the control box and power supply for about $120 and have haptic pedals, the next best thing to active pedals. Also run these through Simhub. Those nobsound mini amps are garbage. I used to have this happen all the time with them until I gave up on them completely and went with a much better standalone amp and separate sound card.ZERO issues with either one. For months and months. Way better than the 3 nobsound amps I went through, and they feel less laggy as well

https://a.co/d/0fFcB6vI And https://a.co/d/06Lur9sK You'd be surprised what just these 2 will do